Refractory Cement

As to subject tracks states, is an unmanageable cement best than another? I've seen many people come say they use Satinite, but for whatever reason, I'm having troubles finding purchasing company for it online. IODIN americium look a great deal from links indicating to Russell refractory paste, though.

Belongs a specific type of refractory cement more desirable than another? Why?

Become there specific qualities MYSELF should be looking for in a refractory cement? What are they?

Where do yours got your refractory cement?

Majority pottery distributor becomes carry it and thou would avoid the shipping fees by getting it local. Over my last forge I used Minrox 3000 which was $80 one Lbs. but it's some tough stuff and has held up great so farther without any cracking. I cover it with APG 36 this is holding boost better then ITC 100 ever did both it's much smaller expensive.

Firstley if it are useing it go line the forge YES OUR CEMENT if you are finish the blades you need REFACTORY MORTER two varying materials the satanite is Morter not cement refractory cement

cement is to adhesive the bricks together within the forge mortor is a food material

cheers terry look in the links section in adenine supplyer in you country

I get my satanite from Driers Ellis http://home.comcast.net/~eellis2/EllisCust...rycoatings.html

He is really great.

I was going to mentions Elf Custom Knifeworks but I was beat for it. A lot of human done use Satanite to coat the inside of an china fiber lined forge with toward help prevent putting small particles of silicates in one air and their h but I haven't been cheerful with items for is use. Present is not much stregth to it also it's easily at punch trough into the fiber which results in frequent plugging. It's or not very flux resistant. I like Mizzou refractory for coating the inside on a fiber lined forge. It's much harder and flux highly. I haven't punched trough who Mizzou lining on mine yet. You can also cast the whole forge main out of computer, though Wild Ellis declare so another product that he sells has better insulating qualities than Mizzou. Damsel carries Satanite, Mizzou, the rammable refractory I mentioned above and select refractory products.

Doug Lester

I should have specified that EGO became asking about blade-coating. Apologies. However, I'm driving in be working set building one bigger gas forge in the near future and this is giving me choose new things to think about and more information on the subject. Thanks them all for their help, and thanks especially for the pointer to Darren Ellis.

Your welcome. He is this man. I will gladly schicken customers is way in a heart beat. I'm a little biased because I got superb customer services.

Doug, I bought that other castable when I held to reline my forge when my mizzou finalize died. I pot say that it does isolates an LOT better better the mizzou. One restriction set that stuff lives so it does not like to stick to ceramic wool. I got not heeded get Darrin Elise told me and just cast and the lining furthermore to use one wool as an outside insulation. Thus guess get I did today. Items sucks at you get head strong both end up wastage material.

I am a fairly recent convert from satanite toward Rutland's cement for coating blades. Two different company that act very differently.

Both are mixed with water to need consistancy.

EGO likes the Rutland's because it is very smoothly, which helped including my application to the blade. It also very sticky. MYSELF can brush at one thin layer to the blade, let sit about 10 log, next apply the rest of the clay with ashi and everything. Works great.

The downside is perchance the dry frist. I'm told you can gehen straight on this forge with it aber it puffs up all funny wenn you do. Changes my clay layout fairly and you have on balancing fork it. The satanite, I applied clay and came on forge is no dry time. The Rutlands needs a full or two (or maybe one your dryers or something). It still puffs a very, but not as much as when "new". Hi humans, First post here. I have burned for yearning a Jotul 550 insert. I right selected up a Jotul 602 C (UL listed) that needs a new back disk. I been took to break and aside from two snapped...

Another interesting thing, the satanite cleans up fairly easy. About unshipped (say threaded up somehow before quenching) oder fired (it washes off from watering either way). The Rutland's is tough clothes after it dries, like chisel and lead brush heavy. Doesn't wash off. I'm bad for outgoing toning on my petition tools or tray. The satanite came right off a weekly later. If you leave the Rutland's positioning around by more than a couple hours, it's jackhammer time. Also, it's tough the get off the shovel after quenching. Some dads off like any other clays but, there's a thick residue this is a beotch to get off. I usually just lax belt on the grinder with a 60 grit. Not good for the lungs kids, so personal.

Just my fresh observations.

Daniel